Thursday, January 31, 2013

Adjusting

The last week has been very interesting for me. It has been over a month since traveling. Over a month since going to any type of employment. Over a month of planning my days to solely revolve around seeing sights, eating and keeping entertained. It has required a bit of adjustment.

I have been feeling restless and ill-content during the day time especially on days when we are sitting around the hostel. My ill-content comes from a feeling of not being productive. There is no real work to be done or stimulus to bring a worth-while challenge to the day. Some days I feel that I am just killing time between meals and sleep.

I expected to feel this in some capacity as I am used to working full-time. I am excited for our time on the coast in Ecuador as I plan to surf which will be a new challenge. Other times are more challenging due to setting and events. I have a few ideas as to how to address this but it will be interesting to see what other thoughts and feelings will arise due to full time travel. It will also be interesting to see the adjustment getting back to the non travel life.

Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Photo Con Crema

Pictured is:
1. Quito's old town view of the "Dancing Virgin". It is actual a giant statue of Mary standing on a serpent ready to take flight.

2. The beautiful and bustling central square of Quito. Beautiful.

3. Quito's Presidential Palace in the main square. Just outside of the square you can find the most extravagant church. The interior walls and ceiling is covered in gold. Hundreds of pounds of gold. Impressive or ridiculous; you decide.

4. A view of the old town streets. Still cobblestone and some with the original stones laid in the 1500's







Tuesday, January 29, 2013

A lovely weekend

This weekend we went to a little town called Otavalo. We were lucky enough to have met two Argentinian ladies at our hostel who were headed to the same place and spoke English and Spanish. It was very fortunate to because trying to navigate through the public bus system was challenging.

After a two hour bus ride we pulled into Otavalo where the market starts in the town square and expanded from there. It was huge. We did our best to see each part of the market but we ended up getting lost in the streets and going wherever we saw something interesting. There were so many different things; fruits, veggies, clothing, instruments, jewelry, blankets, table clothes, hammocks, yarn, trinkets of all varieties, paintings, and cloth. Ashley went coo-coo for cloth where as I wanted to find a replacement hat and was interested in the instruments.

We stayed for two nights in Otavalo because we wanted to have less pressure to buy at the market, the surrounding area was beautiful, and the hostel was comfortable. On the second night, Sunday, we were kept awake by loud music playing. I couldn't sleep because the beat was too good and eventually I gave in to curiosity, put my clothes back on, and went in search of this live band. I found it two blocks from our hostel in a small soccer stadium. There were a couple hundred local people there all chatting and dancing. The main thing to make a group that walked single file in a circle and dance to the music. I naturally stayed on the side lines until a jovial local pulled me into a circle. I was very inconspicuous as I stood at least a foot taller than most everyone and I was the only gringo there. The music lasted and hour or so longer and then I went home ready to sleep. All in all a fun experience.

Our ride home went smoothly and when we returned to Quito we realized that we had brought more back with us than what we purchased at the market. We brought back a fervent love for Fresa Con Crema. While in Otavalo we were inexplicably locked out of our hostel and so being too early for dinner by some time we went to a nearby icecream shop. It was there that we discovered our delicious treat, strawberries with cream. We have both been craving strawberries and we thought we would try this. It has since turned into a daily event to have our strawberries with cream. We cannot get enough and it is so, so good to taste strawberries again. Lovin' it.

Pictured below are some photos of things we did not buy, a typical market stall, and Fresa con crema!







Monday, January 28, 2013

For my nephews

Pop quiz!
What are these animals names?
Where do they live?
What do they eat?
Which is your favorite?











Saturday, January 26, 2013

Quito, Ecuador

A capitol city. Significant to Ecuador's independence from Spain. Significant to South America's independence from Spain. A capitol. The hills hold Quito like Atlas holds the world. The city is cradled between the shoulders of the Ande's foothills. Narrow sided it stretches on for miles and miles. The spine of Ecuador.

There are two sections of the city marked on our map; old town and new town. We have been told not to stray from these areas because it is not safe. We have been told to be careful within these areas because they are not safe. We stayed in old town, it was filled with the sounds of barking dogs, children playing or yelling, and car alarms. We stayed in new town, it was filled with the sounds of throbbing base, young inebriated adults playing or yelling, and car alarms. Old town has basilicas, cathedrals, and government palaces. New town has hotels, international cuisine and night clubs.

There is strength here. The presence of military, police, and many hospitals attest. The previous President was found to be embezzling millions of tax dollars for his toys and fancies. He fled the country when he was found out. The current president has brought national development to national economic resources. He has asked other country's corporations to leave. He has spent millions on new roads and improved infrastructure. He is in control and the people take pride in him.

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Photo Meringue Pie!

Some treats for you from Banos.

A Banos Beauty
A yummy stout (finally!)
A sleepy Jaguar
And a night shot of the old cathedral







Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Banos, Ecuador

It is our last day in Banos (pronounced Bahn-yos). We will be jumping on a bus to Quito, Ecuador's capitol city in a few hours. It should be about a four hour bus ride winding through the Andes and up in elevation. I really hope our driver takes it easy. It is such a beautiful area but much harder to take it all in when you're swerving around ridiculously tight corners.

'Donde esta el bano' means 'where is the bathroom' in Spanish. Banos is named for its thermal baths. It is situated quite close to a Valcano most recently erupting in 2010. Its popularity has arisen due to its thermal baths. It is a small town nestled in a valley but a great volume of people come to visit each year. It has many hostels, restaurants, shops, and tourist agencies to meet its visitors needs and desires.

We have visited other tourist towns but we haven't liked very much. Banos is much different. That is because there are options in Banos. We can enjoy the scenery, the town, the touristy things, whatever we want. We are not pressured to do anything because we are gringos, the paid for activities are reasonably priced, and the restaurants have tasty food that offer variety. In short we have greatly enjoyed our time here.

But it is time to move on. In Quito we are hoping to see the city and its museums, what is reported as the best market in South America by our guide book, Both the real and fake equators, and a cloud forest that houses hundreds of different birds and butterflies. It should be a full trip and fast paced compared to how we have been travelling the past two weeks.

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Delicious

6:08pm. Curried veggies in Banos. Yummy!

One Month

Ashley and I have officially been traveling for one month as of yesterday. We have completed one sixth of our trip. It feels as though we have been gone for so long and yet not long at all. Five more months seems like forever and a blink of an eye. Time is doing strange things to us here.

Since our travels we have learned about South American history, traveling, each other, ourselves. The list goes on and on. Hindsight has helped us to adjust our present behaviours and our expectations for the rest of the trip. We have also been blessed by chance happenings and good people that have come across our path.

We miss our friends. We miss our families. We miss things familiar and we love the connections we have to home.

Here's to another five months!



Saturday, January 19, 2013

Moving on

We caught the bus from Riobamba to Banos this morning. We spent our last days in Riobamba at the orphanage, visiting with friends, and watching the Big Bang Theory.

The orphanage we went to called The Ark. It currently has around forty children which is lower numbers than usual. The children were a few weeks old to age 18. We mostly found ourselves with the toddlers and babies as the other age groups were busy doing homework or were able to entertain themselves.

It only took a few moments for the young ones to warm up to us. One of them immediately walked up to us and gave the universal sign of "pick me up". I don't know if we were able to put him down after that. I was constantly in trouble the first day for having too many children in the air at once, rocketing children in the air holding their hands instead of their waists, and having too many children in a dog pile. I am glad I was told not to as well because I would not have survived those activities with that many relentless children on hand.

On our last day we met with Jesse and Maria at Andaluza's, a deli. They cure their own meats as well as make their own bread, mayo, and other sauces. I mentioned before that familiarity is a wonderful thing and food is no exception to that statement. I have a fervent love for sandwiches and these were a welcome treat. Couple sandwiches with good conversation and it made for a lovely afternoon.

We are now in Banos which is a tourist spot but so far we really like it. There is a very positive feeling to this town with a lot of activities. I will post more later.

Photo: Ashley and I at Andaluza with Jesse and Maria. Yum.

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Riobamba, Ecuador

Riobamba is one of Ecuador's major cities with a population of 160,000 as of 2010. It is situated close to four different volcanos one of which, Chimbarazo is currently active. It is not uncommon to see plumes of ash coming from the volcano, to hear rumblings, and to wake up with ash covering the city. We have been informed that traditionally the volcano is active for thirty years and at which time it will blow its top in a major eruption. The plateau that Riobamba is situated on was formed by one of these eruptions.

I mentioned before that we have friends here, Jesse and Maria Allan. I worked with both Jesse and Maria for a time in Kelowna. Maria grew up in Riobamba and Jesse's parents have implemented and operated an orphanage in this city for some twenty years. Jesse was kind enough to pick us up from our bus, show us the city, help us find accommodation, and take us out for dinner on the day we arrived. Yesterday I worked out at Jesse's gym in the morning and we visited the orphanage in the afternoon. We plan on visiting the orphanage in the afternoons for the next couple days to help where we can.

Familiarity is a wonderful thing. Ashley and I have definitely missed friends, family, routine, and a home in the passed few weeks. Seeing familiar faces and chatting with friends has been a welcome respite from the traveling life-style. It is also wonderful to have conversations in english without having to try to define a word or play charades to communicate what is meant. As much as we are hoping to "help" at the orphanage we are receiving the greater benefit of familiar faces and a safe environment to enjoy.

This leg of the trip comes at a fortunate time for us as we are both feeling the effects of new bacteria introduced to our systems. We both feel quite fatigued and dehydrated with a lack of appetite. The latter was fully displayed yesterday when we ordered lunch at a restaurant. We both ate a few bites and realized we were full. We also didn't realize that we ordered a three course meal each as we usually share meals. Soup followed by a meatloaf with rice and noodles, finishing with a tamale. I powered through my meal leaving only some the rice on my plate which I ended up paying for later both fiscally and intestinally.

We are both feeling better today with less audible complaining from our innards. One positive is that I think we have achieved our weight loss goals which have been eluding us for the past couple years. Hurray.

Monday, January 14, 2013

Guayaquil, Ecuador

We have arrived in Ecuador. We are currently staying at a backpacker's hostel in the port city of Guayaquil, Ecuador's economic powerhouse. Large ocean going vessels can dock here importing and exporting all sorts of good. A main export of Ecuador is the banana. Ecuadorian chocolate is supposed to be excellent and the question of where I think Belgian chocolate gets its supply from has been put to me.

Our bus trip was not 16 hours but 19 due to the bus coming in late and the border crossing. It was probably our worst bus experience to date as we were both not feeling well and I had to break the rules of only urinating in the bus' washroom a couple different times. Ashley started feeling very faint in line for the border and had to sit while our passports were being stamped; she always picks the best times. In the end we made it none the worse for wear.

Yesterday we took a public bus to the waterfront of Guayaquil (pronounced huay-a-kil just so you know). The city is not all that spectacular although the waterfront was very pleasant. There were beautiful gardens and ponds with paths to walk through. There was also a museum, an Imax theater, and a food court where we shared a plate of rice and beans for $2.

At the end of the waterfront were 444 stairs leading through a very old part of town up to a lighthouse and church. The steps took us through old shops, storehouses, and residential homes which must have been the heart of the old city. The lighthouse compound was also one of the better defensible positions in the harbour. There were original canons still on display and the views of the city stretching into the horizon were unbeatable.

Along the waterfront were also tall ships. They give tours up and down the river. I was disappointed to find that they did not actually use the sails their rigging and masts proclaimed but instead were powered by diesel. The ships were quite large though, I would say that around 150-200ft. Ashley proclaimed that "the stern is six brothers in length, so it has to be more than 150 feet." She further explained that she imagined her brothers laying in a line on the stern, that this would equal about 38 feet and that the boat was more than five times that size. There are a number of things I would like to say about this and I shall list them below:

1. Apparently having relatives for school principles does not actually improve one's education.
2. When did we adopt the "brother" as standard unit of measurement?
3. There are some Asian countries who do not allow more than one unit of measurement per family and therefor have a hard time with construction projects.
4. I would hate to see what happens when something needs measuring that is a-brother-and-a-half in length. Maybe it would be one brother and one nephew in length? Ashley quipped the nephew piece just now.
5. How would square feet and volume work?

Ecuador has adopted the US dollar as its currency. It is an interesting switch for us as we were constantly trying to convert into USD in Peru and now we are confronted with the true cost of things. It is strange as well for me because the prices here are somewhat what I experienced them when I was growing up. A McDonalds meal is under $5 again.

Today we are heading to Riobamba another large town in Ecuador but in the mountains. I have friends who lives there that we will be connecting with.

Q'orikancha

There was in Cuzco a museum worth noting. Most of the historical sites and museums of interest fell into a tourist ticket that we would have to buy. One was not allowed to go to only one of these grouped sites without buying the ticket for them all. We decided that if it was all or nothing then it would be nothing. Machu Picchu was where our finances would land.

One Museum that we were able to see due to it being separate from the ticket described above. This museum was called Q'orikancha and it was worth every centimos spent on the entrance fee.

Q'orikancha was an important Inca temple in Cuzco. From what I understand it was placed in the exact center of the Inca empire. The city of Cuzco was build around it and the rest of the empire followed suit. When it was discovered by the spanish it held over 400 solid gold sheets lining the walls. The Spanish obviously recognized it as historically significant and left it alone... It was pillaged immediately. Its gold melted down, its holy places destroyed and a church erected in its place.

The church still stands today on the site of the temple. It is beautiful in its own right but its construction is overshadowed by the immense stone working skill of the Inca. Q'orikancha is constructed entirely of stones painstakingly shaped and fit together. The Inca used no mortar in their construction. The stones were notched and fit together. They even accounted for a plumbing system carving paths for water to flow through.

I can only imagine the time and effort put in to the choosing, transportation, shaping, and fitting of stones. I can imagine inventing new words and curses when something went wrong. I can hardly put a nail in a wall without something going wrong.

Below are photos from Q'orikancha. The first two are examples of inca stonework, the third is a contrast of spanish stonework. The fourth picture is a description of the layout of the Inca empire and the fifth is a painting of the description.











Friday, January 11, 2013

Photo treats

The hat that I lost after five days, New Years horizon at Arequipa, and the Inca Bridge at Machu Picchu.





Another calm day

We are four hours away from heading for the bus station. Today was spent relaxing in our hostel hammocks planning the next phase of our trip. We have a rough outline for the future and that seems to be the best we can do.

It is amazing to me how much of our lives are spent planning, preparing, eating and cleaning up meals. I have noticed that it occupies my mind for much of the day. The who's what's when's and where's are always on our minds. It is interesting to note as well that no matter how yummy of a foreign dish we have been served we are always craving a good salad which are in short supply here it seems. Most dishes are carbohydrate bonanzas.

For now we are sitting on a sofa at our hostel listening to the hobbit audiobook. Tick tock tick tock.

Thursday, January 10, 2013

Trujillo

Here we are in a city we did not intend to come to. We stayed last night in a small tourist town called Huanchaco. It is touristy because it is known for its emphasis on surfing. I did not surf though I am aching to. To surf here requires wet suits and I do not want to rent boards and wetsuits. Better to wait for Ecuador where one is only required to rent a board.

Huanchaco was nice while we were there. We walked along the water front, went for breakfast, laid on the beach, and went for dinner. Later we found an amazing bakery with yummy pastries and cakes. We decided to stop for a birthday treat as we were on a bus and having a slightly intense argument for her actual birth day. We had key lime pie and as Ashley described it just now "a pastry with a peach kerplunked on top." I could have had one of everything they were selling.

Today we focused on how to get to Guyaquil, Ecuador's second largest city. We bought bus tickets but we do not leave until tomorrow at 11:45pm. It seems that the bus company we use and trust does not have the same foothold in Ecuador as it does in Peru. We will have to do some research on which company is best to use now. For today we will check out Trujillo, relax, and enjoy the sunshine.

Breakfast is served, over and out!

E

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Happy Birthday

It's Ashley's birthday! We are spending it on/waiting for a bus. Happy Birthday Ashley!

Monday, January 7, 2013

On the move

We are currently waiting to catch a bus from Cuzco back to Lima. It will be 21 hours on the bus. We will get to Lima at 1pm and catch the next bus north to Trujillo, Peru. All told in the next 48 hours we will be on the bus for 31 of them. We purchased an audiobook for the trip as well as splurging on a bag of Candy and a bar of chocolate which I found out was baking coco. Idiota!

I may have some time to create a few more posts along the way so don't be surprised at a flurry of posts in a day or two. For now i'll leave you with some photo treats. The Cuzco market... waste not want not.







Sunday, January 6, 2013

Treats!

It was very foggy when we arrived at Machu Picchu but we got some good photos. They lifted around 11 for us to get some of the classic shots.









Behold, Machu Picchu!



Saturday, January 5, 2013

Oops

This morning we made our way to Aguas Calientes. We decided to forgo the one and two day tours provided of Machu Picchu because they were quite expensive. A little advice for anyone considering taking the same trip. It is cheaper to take a tour than to go it alone. Hindsight is 20/20 right? We have already spent twice the price of a tour for two people and we are stuck in Aguas Calientes for another night because the train was too full. Oops.

At the moment we are sitting in our hotel room because it has been off and on pouring, and I mean seriously pouring down rain for the past hour. This rain is worse than the fiercest west coast November rain storms that I can remember. We are going to have to do some serious punch-dancing to address our rage for this error.

Here is another friendly tip. When looking at rough guide or lonely planet books it is important to read between the lines. It is difficult to do before your are actually travelling but if you can manage it then you will save time and money. These books are written for people traveling to a destination and not to keep them away from it. Therefor you will rarely read in a Lonely planet guide "This place seriously sucks. It is too expensive, not worth seeing, and it smells. The waiters are hungrier for customers than you are for food. Don't go here."

You can however pick out little clues that this is the case by reading what the majority of things to do are, the prices of hostels, and the price of a cheap meal. Bear in mind that the books are published every two or so years which means that they are written every three or so years. This means that there will be price inflations, changes of services, and changes in development. It is also important to recognize what are redundant features in towns and what are unique. For instance every town in Peru has a cathedral. They are all magnificent in there own right but it is not worth trying to see every one of them.

Just a few things we've been learning as we travel.

E

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Cusco, Peru

It is raining in Cusco. It is the rainy season. It may rain most every day or it may rain most of every day. It is unpredictable. Cusco is unpredictable. I did not trust this city at first sight. We were told that it was beautiful. It is. The parks are beautiful, the buildings are beautiful, the cobbled streets are beautiful but they are not predictable. There are streets that should not be there and streets that should be but are not. Some streets have been renamed from Spanish to the Inca language of Quencha. Some maps were not informed of these changes. Some maps only care if you go on the tours they advertise.

The biggest city in Peru with 600-700 years of established history. History is built into this city. History is not predictable, it does not build in blocks. Neither does it adapt for or accommodate humanity. Every space of this city is in use. Every nook holds a shop and every corner holds a secret. But even the secrets here are unpredictable. Once discovered they remain secret. Some secrets were looted long ago along with the city's wealth. The European explorers looted Cusco's riches. Now European explorers bring riches back.

There is a market in Cusco. It is in a covered area that takes up an entire city block. There are locals that buy there. There are also tourists. Tourists buy freshly made juice. Locals buy meat, vegetables, grains, cheese, legumes, fruit, nuts, bread and sauces. Tourists buy alpaca wool sweaters, toques, gloves, and socks. Locals have their clothes mended. Tourists haggle for the best price. Locals make purchases.Apparently there is also an abundant need for bovine snout, tongue, stomach, hooves and testicles in Cusco.

Feliz Ano

Ashley and I decided to stay in Arequipa for the new year and we were rewarded for our decision. We went to the town square at 9:30pm but soon found that there was nothing happening until later. We ended up back at the hostel for the new year. It actually turned out interesting, eventful, and awe-inspiring.

The first thing that happened was the neighbors decided to build a fire in their courtyard. It turned out that they were burning some sort of sage brush and spent most of the time trying to keep it going but I was a little worried about how closely they were burning to a wooden door. I also didn't know if they owned the place or if they were just pyromaniacs practicing their trade.

At approximately 11:40 the fireworks started. They did not stop for nearly 45 minutes. At 11:55 the city was in a state of bombardment that I have never seen before. From our vantage point on the rooftop we had a 360 degree view of the city and in that view there was not one inch of the skyline that did not have some sort of firework sparkling in it. The sound was not booming here and there it was layers of explosions. I can say that I was impressed with the display. It was an unforgettable new year.

Erik